Imagine your most nerve wracking flight experience and multiply it by ten!
Saba Island, also known as the “The Unspoiled Queen” is home to the shortest commercial runway in the world. After a 12 minute flight from Sint Maarten, the mountainous island quickly comes into view and evokes imagery reminiscent of something you would see in Jurassic Park. Even more, the Dutch Caribbean likely differs from any other Caribbean islands you have visited geologically and experientially. It’s not about mass tourism and resorts. It’s about the raw, untouched beauty, conservation, the intimate community and unexpected discoveries.
Where is Saba Island & How to Get There
Saba is a small, volcanic island located in the northeastern Caribbean Sea near Saint Martin/Sint Maarten and Saint Barthélemy. It’s also a special municipality of the Netherlands alongside Bonaire and Sint Eustatius. This differs from Aruba, Curaçao and Sint Maarten which have become constituent countries within the Kingdom. To actually get to the island, you can take an approximately 20 minute flight, via Winair, from Sint Maarten which offers exciting views and a unique flying experience by landing on the world’s shortest commercial runway.
If flying is not your style, you can also travel by sea through the various ferry options available. For my trip, we went the flying route and couldn’t recommend it anymore. From the views, to the once in a lifetime landing experience it’s definitely not something to miss out on when traveling to Saba Island. The journey is part of the experience and it’s the perfect introduction to the island.
A Brief History of the Dutch Caribbean
The island was first inhabited by the Ciboney hunter gatherers as early as 1100 BC. Archaeological exploration indicates that they settled near Fort Bay amongst other locations on Saba. They were then followed by the Arawak people who migrated from South America and settled there around 800 AD and built villages in areas like Spring Bay and St. John’s and referred to the island as Siba. Eventually, the Dutch would arrive in the 1600s seeking to establish a settlement for the Dutch West India Company.
The Netherlands would ultimately gain control in 1816 officially establishing the island as one of the Netherlands Antilles and eventually a special municipality of the Netherlands. Sites like the Saba Heritage Center serve to remind visitors and locals alike of the ways in which the island has changed. During our trip, the Center had an exciting array of artifacts and fossils which contextualized how vast the history is.
Outside of this, the history is kept alive in the architecture throughout the island. All of the homes on the island are identically designed; white, with red roofs and green shutters. This is due to the island’s government passing a law in 1999 which maintains this tradition. All of this is a beautiful reminder of Saba’s resilience and the importance of conservation and community is central today.
What is there to do on Saba?
Hiking
This island has been dubbed “The Unspoiled Queen” with much of its natural flora and fauna expertly maintained. As a result, the island is home to world class trails (between 13 and 20) which are exciting for beginner and seasoned hiking fans alike. While traversing these trails, hikers move through up to five biomes as Saba’s ecosystem is highly diverse. Our group was lucky enough to experience the Mt. Scenery hike guided by James Johnson (aka Crocodile James), a native Saban, who had a breadth of knowledge to share with us as we explored the mountainsides.
The trails are also full of plants and fruits which have a multitude of uses as discovered by Sabans over the years. Some of these included the Black eyed Susan (Saba’s national flower), lemon grass (can be made into a tea for sleep), wild cilantro, and even cinnamon bush whose tea can be used as a flu remedy as well as an ingredient in Saba Spice, a spiced rum drink. Towards the end of our hike, we emerged from the cloud forest to the summit and enjoyed jaw dropping panoramic views of the island.
Marine Adventures
As a result of Saba’s unique positioning, the island draws in a plethora of marine life which can be enjoyed through diving and snorkeling. Tent Reef and The Pinnacles are two famous dive sites, with Tent Reef having actually been nominated as one of the 10 best dive sites in the Dutch Caribbean.
Saba’s waters were some of the clearest I’ve seen while snorkeling, allowing you to see down to the ocean floor. We got to see turtles and an array of jellyfish that frequent these waters. Divers who enter these waters can see everything from Horse-eye Jacks, Great Barracuda, Tarpon and five species of shark. They can also see Parrotfish, Triggerfish, Angelfish, and a wide array of other schooling fish.
Cultural Exploration
Walking and driving through Saba Island in the Dutch Caribbean in itself is an exciting activity. The winding roads and constantly shifting bio-diversity make for a highly engaging experience. The villages, Windwardside and Hell’s Gate are filled with shops full of local trinkets and handiworks which make for exciting keepsakes and serve as an opportunity to learn about native practices.
One of the most memorable experiences was visiting JoBean Glass Art Studio, a colorful workshop run by local artist JoBean. Known for her vibrant glass beads and hand crafted creations, JoBean offers visitors the chance to see the delicate art of glassblowing up close, and even try it themselves, which we were lucky enough to do! Watching her transform molten glass into ocean inspired jewelry and learning how to do it, was an unforgettable experience and potentially introduced me to a new hobby.
Food & Drink
Saba’s culinary scene is small but full of character, blending Caribbean flavors with Dutch and other international influences. The dining experience here is wonderfully intimate and you won’t necessarily find chain restaurants, but you will discover hidden gems run by locals.
One of our favorite spots was Tropics Café which was home to a beautiful pool and tiki bar overlooking the island. We first stopped by for a casual lunch, but our dinner experience really stood out as we dined under the moonlight while watching Reaching for the Clouds, a documentary by Tom van’t Hof. We enjoyed delicious surf and turf, incredible wine and cocktails and of course dessert. The atmosphere was relaxed, the staff were friendly and the incredible food made it the kind of place you want to keep going back to.
Another highlight was Saba Snack, where I enjoyed an aromatic curry over white rice, watching a breathtaking sunset and some of the best cocktails on the island. The laidback energy and welcoming team make it ideal for unwinding after a day of hiking or diving.
For something right in the heart of town, Island Flavor served up deliciously fresh fish tacos and a standout sparkling ginger juice which seriously raised my standards for fresh squeezed juices. Even better, the outdoor patio is set up just along the street side, allowing for perfect people watching as you enjoy your food. It’s simple, unfussy and gives you a perfect taste of local life on the island.
And for those looking to end the day with a local brew, Deep Diving Brewing Co. is a Dutch Caribbean must. The island’s first and only craft brewery offers small batch beers crafted with care and creativity. My favorite was their Belgian IPA!
Where to Stay?
Cottage Club
Saba has several accommodation options for visitors, and we had the absolute pleasure of staying at The Cottage Club. This charming nature retreat was incredibly designed and curated to the point that it felt like we were staying at an art museum. The Cottage Club also offers panoramic views which can be best enjoyed from the penthouse suite which has its own private balcony.
Outside of the standard accommodations, which include individual private cottages, The Cottage Club offers much more. We enjoyed a delicious breakfast which included fresh squeezed passion fruit orange sourced from the trees on the property. There were also delicious ginger cookies and fresh coffee available everyday. The Cottage Club also has a pool which is perfect for refreshing and relaxing after a long day of exploring the island.
Conservation Efforts in the Dutch Caribbean
Saba’s commitment to preservation is one of the defining aspects of the island. Roughly one third of the island’s total area is protected by the Saba Conservation Foundation, which manages both the terrestrial trails and the Saba Marine Park.
These initiatives ensure that the island remains pristine for generations to come, and maintains Saba’s “Unspoiled Queen” identity. SCF’s work includes coral restoration projects, sustainable waste management programs, and community centered environmental education. The island is also home to an annual “Sea & Learn” program whose sole purpose is to help others understand the fragility of the environment and the importance of its protection.
The island’s small population takes deep pride in protecting its environment. This collective respect for nature makes Saba a model for sustainable tourism in the Caribbean. Visitors are encouraged to travel consciously, use reef safe sunscreen, stay on marked trails and support local businesses that prioritize conservation.
Final Thoughts about Saba Island
Saba isn’t a destination for those seeking flash resorts or nightlife. It’s geared for travelers craving adventure and connection to nature. From the thrilling landing at Juancho E. Yrausquin Airport to the cloud forests at the summit of Mount Scenery, every part of Saba invites you to slow down and look closer.
Whether you’re sipping Saba Spice or overlooking the ocean, chatting with locals in Windwardside, or diving among untouched coral reefs, you’ll quickly understand why this tiny island’s nickname, “The Unspoiled Queen”, fits so perfectly.
Saba proves that sometimes the smallest destinations can have the biggest impact.
